php_admin_value on php-fpm pools aren't working

My php-fpm pools look like this (as per https://www.php.net/manual/en/install.fpm.configuration.php#example-24 this is a very valid synthax:)

[vmtest]

prefix = /srv/users/vmtest

user  = vmtest
group = vmtest

listen       = /srv/users/vmtest/run/php-fpm.sock
listen.owner = vmtest
listen.group = www-data
listen.mode  = 660

env[PATH]   = /usr/local/bin:/usr/bin:/bin
env[TMPDIR] = /srv/users/vmtest/tmp
env[TEMP]   = /srv/users/vmtest/tmp
env[TMP]    = /srv/users/vmtest/tmp

slowlog = /srv/users/vmtest/log/php.slow.log

php_admin_value[error_log]      = /srv/users/vmtest/log/php.error.log
php_admin_value[mail.log]       = /srv/users/vmtest/log/php.mail.log
php_admin_value[doc_root]       = /srv/users/vmtest/app
php_admin_value[upload_tmp_dir] = /srv/users/vmtest/tmp

Everything works fine here, except php_admin_value values. When I load phpinfo() for any pool, it shows:

error_log => no value => no value
mail.log => no value => no value
doc_root => no value => no value
upload_tmp_dir => no value => no value

I was testing using the CLI:

sudo -u vmtest php -r "phpinfo();"

which show empty values.

Using a file containing <? phpinfo(); and opening it trough the browser confirms it is working as expected.